Why Fall is a Great Time for Surfing in Tofino?
September 16th, 2024
Fall is the time when the waves get bigger and the beaches are quieter. Need I say more? Well it’s also the start of storm watching season, the water is still on the ‘warmer’ side and there’s no more lineups in the surf or at local restaurants (except for Rhino in the morning!).
Here’s why Tofino is a surfer’s gem in the fall and what gear you’ll need to make the most out of your surfing trip.
– STORM WATCHING –
One of the most exciting and beloved local activities is watching the dramatic skies, rolling thunder and crashing waves. It’s a show you don’t want to miss. Watching the storm from the safety of the shore is one way to enjoy it, but nothing beats the thrill of hopping on a surfboard and riding the powerful waves. These powerful storms bring a lot of energy and intensity to the coast, creating the perfect conditions for experienced surfers.
Check Tofino Tourism for more Storm watching information.
– PRIME SURF CONDITIONS –
Even though we’re moving away from the summer months, the water temperature stays relatively consistent, allowing for longer surfing sessions. The beaches get quieter, giving you more space to enjoy the water without the summer crowds, and the waves tend to get cleaner and bigger as well. Win-win!
It is a great time for intermediate and advanced surfers who want to level up their skills. New to surfing? Fewer people in the water means you’ll have more room to find your own waves, focus on your own surfing, and feel a deeper connection to the ocean.
– GEAR ESSENTIALS –
Fall is often milder compared to the colder winter months. The water temperature starts cooling down from 15℃ (59℉) at the beginning of September, down to 9℃ (48℉) by the time December comes around. Proper gear will keep you warm and extend your sessions in the water.
Wetsuit – You can get by with a good 4/3mm wetsuit but we recommend going for the 5/4mm. The water is not that cold yet but the air can be chilly, especially on windy days. A thicker wetsuit will keep you warmer and sealed seams can provide extra insulation as well.
Neoprene accessories – As the temperatures drop, the wetsuit alone might not be enough. Adding booties, gloves and a hood will help you stay in the water longer and protect you from the chill of the wind.
Surfboard – With the swells getting bigger and more powerful, it might be time to switch up your surfboard. A longboard can still work on the smaller days, but many fall surfers prefer to go shorter. A shorter surfboard or a fish will give you more control in powerful conditions. It is easier to maneuver the board, allowing you to respond more quickly and efficiently to faster and steeper waves. They are designed to handle the speed and energy of bigger waves.
Surf wax – Make sure you have the right wax for cooler water temperatures. The one most of us reach for is the purple Sex Wax for cold to cool temperatures 9℃-20℃ (48℉-68℉)
Other gear – A good rain jacket or poncho will keep you warm and dry while you’re hanging out at the beach in between sessions. A thermos with a warm beverage will be a nice touch for the post-surf chill.
– SMALLER CROWDS, DEEPER SURF CULTURE –
Fall is a time of transformation between a lively, tourist-driven surfing town to a more relaxed, authentic atmosphere. Locals shift into a more laid-back energy after a busy summer and enjoy the waves. Smaller lineups are friendlier, giving you a chance to connect to fellow surfers and be a part of this beautiful community on the West Coast. It is the season of reflection, connection, peace and adventure. 🫶
– BEACH SELECTION –
Best for beginners: North Chesterman beach – the waves are smaller and more manageable, which makes it a great spot for learning and improving
Best for experienced surfers: Cox Bay or Wickaninnish Beach – these two beaches have the most powerful and consistent waves, perfect for those looking to challenge themselves
All levels: South Chesterman can get big when the Swell is right, but tends to be more forgiving than the waves at Cox Bay. Long Beach is the largest and most iconic surf spot in Tofino. Fall swells bring big and consistent waves and breathtaking scenery. Beginners should stay closer to shore, while more experienced surfers paddle out for those larger sets in the back.
– READY TO SURF? –
At Swell Tofino surf shop we have everything you need to make the most out of your surfing experience while visiting Tofino. From wetsuit and surfboard rentals to surf lessons and expert advice on where to find the best waves. Stop by the shop, gear up, and let’s get you out on the water in time to ride those fall swells! 🏄♂️
Lara & The Swell Team ✌️